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Wednesday, March 3, 2010

In a heartbeat

Every February (give or take a couple of weeks) "the migration" brings an estimated 1.5 million wildebeest (and another 500,000 grazing herbivores) to the plains of northwestern Tanzania (http://www.wildwatch.com/great_migration).

The game viewing, to be sure, was spectacular (seeing the rolling plains teeming with wildebeest moms and newborns, zebra, gazelle, and giraffe causes one to go very still, breathing in the beauty of natural life), but that's what I expected from the experience; to be in awe of the sheer numbers of animals. Actually, I expected (as Tim put it) "to see the plains covered in blood from all the hunting and feasting" (as baby wildebeest make for good eating...for lions, that is).

What I did not expect was to be so moved by the weather- to watch the cold and rain moving across the plain and to feel dwarfed by the darkening clouds is humbling; to be so appreciative of the lodge staff who always greeted Eleanor with smiles, and brought her special breakfast pancakes and soups at lunch that were just the right temperature; to feel so proud of my daughter who, sitting on top of the land cruiser, made the mama lion open her eyes and look up providing the perfect photo opportunity for the other tourists) when she squealed in delight at the sight of the big cat; to be so frightened by a giraffe, which woke me at midnight with the sounds of it's chewing just outside our bedroom window; or to feel so guilty at the sight of the tire tracks dug into the soft ground, which would be the only remaining trace of our presence once we had gone.

Tim and I are nearly broke and I have had incredible difficulty letting go of my time with Eleanor and hiring a nanny so that I can get some real work done, which means I'm not making any money- just spending it. Paying for this safari didn't help our financial situation, but if given the opportunity I would do it all over again. In a heartbeat.
- kjd

 
Eleanor and dad- walking in Ngorongoro Conservation Area.

  
From atop a waterfall.

  
Practicing. 

  
Elephants carve minerals out of the hillside.

  
Maasi and their cattle- Ngorongoro Conservation Area.

  
Ngorongoro Crater- at the rim.

  
I am a cat person.

  
Getting the lion's attention.

  
Starting on her life-list with dad.


Pride of lions, females and babies.

Marabou storks.


 
Wildebeest and weather.

  

  
We were here.

Zebra and giraffe on the crater rim.

Bird watching.

Wildebeest on the plains.

Afternoon nap.


Papa simba.

Hyaena.

Bravery at the snake park.

Maasai men meet Eleanor.

Cheetahs in search of shade.



More bravery at the snake park: Nile croc, meet Eleanor. Eleanor, Nile croc.

The reason for the season.

8 comments:

  1. Amazing pictures you guys. Looks like a time to remember for sure. I can only imagine what it's like to be so close to all of the animals, and the landscape seems pretty breathtaking. Family vacation has taken on a whole new meaning! Guess this means you won't have to go to a zoo anytime soon--thankfully!

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  2. Wow! Thanks for sharing! What an experience! This vicarious African adventure of mine is just getting better and better, keep it up!

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  3. Ok, no doubt these safari pictures are exciting, amazing, beautiful, moving...all of these superlative things. Yes. They are. But...still...the one most astonishing and impressive to me is ELEANOR WALKING LIKE SHE'S BEEN DOING IT FOREVER! Look at her!! She doesn't even need her arm out for balance. Holy cannoli.

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  4. Thanks to all of you, we will certainly continue to share our experiences. And yes, Amy, I agree. I feel like most children when learning to walk will take a step, or two, and then fall, thrilled at their accomplishment. Eleanor, on the other hand, took something like 5 step the first time she even walked. Even now she'll walk around holding my finger like she can't do it on her own, but if prompted she'll walk around the yard to chase me!

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  5. LOVE the pictures. Just breathtaking. And is that the ergo carrier? Would still be stuffing Dylan into his today if he would fit!

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  6. The ergo, yes. Has saved our lives. Although, whenever the African mamas see me with it I get rather funny looks. One man even said to me "Why are your carrying her that way [on the front]?" He must have thought I was crazy!

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  7. First picture at the top of Tim and Eleanor - there is a person in the background that looks like a little doll and Tim is squeezing her in his fist. Or did I just take too much cough medicine? Bonus about carrying her in the front, you can nurse (rather discreetly for that matter)and walk around at the same time (I swear, it's possible if you haven't already discovered this yourself). Ask the Masai if they can do that. Er, actually, they probably can, without the ergo.

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  8. What awesome photos from an amazing adventure! I have to agree with Christine--what the heck is Tim doing squeezing that small person? (Ha!) Love the wide selection of animals; and the substantial numbers of wildebeests. Helps me imagine what it must have been like on our own plains in the days of the bison. If only we'd had the wisdom to save that experience in our OWN lands! (Always seems easier for us to see the importance of it happening elsewhere, it seems.) Grandpa D

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